Showing posts with label Rievaulx Abbey. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Rievaulx Abbey. Show all posts

Monday, September 15, 2014

Monday Exposure: Rievaulx Abbey

Rievaulx Abbey's crossing and presbytery
The crossing and presbytery of Rievaulx Abbey.
They didn't survive the second wave.

Truth be told, Rievaulx Abbey had been declining for centuries. Its founding was directed by the famous French monk Bernard of Clairvaux. Though St. Bernard was not the founder of the Cistercian Order -- a medieval religious order seeking to reform monastic life by strictly following the austere Rule of St. Benedict -- he was its genius expander and proliferator. Under his direction, the Cistercian movement exploded from France into Britain, Spain, Italy, Portugal, and Eastern Europe.

In 1132, twelve of his monks founded Rievaulx in the north of England. Within a few decades their numbers had swollen to more than 140, and an additional 500 lay brothers worked the surrounding land. The abbey reared vast numbers of sheep and made a profitable trade in wool throughout Europe. They were skilled in mining iron and lead. To make better use of the surrounding countryside, they redirected the course of a nearby river three times. By 1200, Rievaulx Abbey was the preeminent Cistercian abbey in England, and one of the country's wealthiest monastic communities.

But the vast program of building a massive church and abbey complex had left them in enormous debt. Moreover, Rievaulx had devoted resources to establishing daughter abbeys in Scotland (e.g., the great Melrose Abbey) and the north of England, eventually numbering nineteen daughter houses. Such expansion by Rievaulx cost not only money. It also inevitably created a brain drain as the abbey sent many of its ambitious young monks away to found the new abbeys. As the 1200s went on, taxation and duties to the Crown, to the Church, to the Cistercian Order, and even to local lords, all increased dramatically. Then a sheep disease in the 1270s and 1280s ruined the abbey's flock. In the 1320s, conflicts between England and Scotland resulted in multiple invasions from the Scots, who nearly captured England's king Edward II at Rievaulx. Extreme weather, crop failures, and cattle diseases weakened the populace in the first half of the 1300s. Most gruesomely, the Black Death struck in 1349.

By 1381, the Rievaulx and its dozens of surrounding buildings were occupied by only 15 monks and three lay brothers. Their numbers improved a bit over the next 150 years, but never approached the previous height. Some of the growth was due to a significant decline in the abbey's discipline toward following the Rule of St. Benedict, allowing the monks to live in private quarters, to eat meat, and to fraternize more with the outside world.

The beginning of the end came in 1535. The king, Henry VIII, had already split with Rome and declared himself the head of the Church in England. He now set about dissolving the monasteries around England, partly as a movement of reform -- the relative wealth, landholdings, usefulness, and godliness of monastic communities were questioned throughout Europe -- but also partly as a means for enhancing the Crown's revenues. Henry had sent harsh inquisitors across the realm to delve into the running of the monastic communities, examining their finances and seeking confessions about moral failings within the abbeys. In 1535, Parliament passed the Act for the Dissolution of the Lesser Monasteries, which dissolved any monasteries, priories, abbeys, or other religious communities whose income was less than £200 per year.

Rievaulx escaped dissolution -- its 1535 income was £351 and 14 shillings -- but closure of the lesser houses caused a popular revolt in the north of England which was put down by force. The royal commissioners returned for further inquisition. On 3 December 1538, armed with the power of the King to convince, cajole, or use force, the commissioners obtained the "voluntary surrender" of the abbey to the Crown. The abbot and 22 monks were granted pensions and the 102 lay brothers were sent away.

Then the abbey was stripped of any valuables and its physical structure given over to a local earl for destruction. Of the 72 buildings connected to the abbey and its surrounding lands, more than half were destroyed and no trace can be found. The remainder were torn down and dismembered, most left in piles of stone rubble.

Excavations in the twentieth century found two skeletons amidst the rubble, crushed in the spasm of destruction. Fitting symbols for the decay and dissolution of Rievaulx Abbey.

Ruins of Rievaulx Abbey
The ruins of Rievaulx Abbey.

Tuesday, July 15, 2014

(Nearly) favorite photos of places we visited our first year

A few weeks ago, I offered up my favorite family photos of our first year here in Scotland. See here and here. Now, for your perusal, are some of my nearly favorite photos of places we have visited in our first year.

These aren't necessarily my favorite places, per se, though some of them are. Rather, these are some of my favorite photos which I took of places. Some of the photos might be appropriate for a travel brochure. Others capture a mood or an ambiance. A few pictures offer something silly or incongruous that caught my eye.

Note that if you click on a photo you can see a larger version of it, as well as scroll through the others. It's a nicer way to see the pictures, but you can't read the captions.

In the next week or so, I'll post my very favorite photos. But I thought these ones were pretty good, too:

Glamis Castle, Scotland.
Looking across Barcelona's old harbor toward Montjuïc. (Barcelona, Spain)
The ruins of St. Andrews Cathedral. (St. Andrews, Scotland)
Stirling Castle, Scotland.
An unavoidably classic shot of Stonehenge, England.
At this point of your tour of the Louvre, even the decorations on the walls are weary. (Paris, France)
Kate's photo of Castle Stalker, of both Highlander and Monty Python and the Holy Grail fame. (Loch Laich, Scotland)
Fishing village of Crail, on the east coast of Scotland. (East Neuk coastline, Scotland)
Anstruther, another fishing village along the East Neuk coast. (Anstruther, Scotland)
Climbing the ruins of Dryburgh Abbey. (Dryburgh, Scotland)
A reflecting pool displays the ceiling of Salisbury Cathedral. (Salisbury, England)
I loved the juxtaposition of the modern street art with the old church. (Le Marais, Paris, France)
The enormous ruins of Fountains Abbey recede into the distance. (Ripon, England)
View across Loch Lomond while hiking on the West Highland Way. (Loch Lomond, Scotland)
Wells Cathedral, from the gardens of the Bishop's Palace. (Wells, England)
Kate's photo in the depths of Rievaulx Abbey. (Helmsley, England)
Courtyard at Versailles Palace. Billions millions thousands of tourists were milling about, but somehow I got a clear shot without them. (Versailles, France)
Only Salvador Dalí could get away with this as art. (Figueres, Spain)
The glorious ceiling of Sagrada Família. (Barcelona, Spain)
Early morning over the Firth of Clyde. The hills of the Isle of Arran rise in the background. (Wemyss Bay, Scotland)
This photo of Notre Dame cathedral was taken from a moving cruise boat on the Seine. (Paris, France)
The back of St. Conan's Kirk. I like how the colored stone complements the changing colors of the leaves in early fall. (Loch Awe, Scotland)
Kelvingrove Museum, with a Malaysia vs. Scotland lawn bowling match on its grounds. (Glasgow, Scotland)
The ruins of Jedburgh Abbey stretch toward the sky. (Jedburgh, Scotland)
The fountain on Rothesay's esplanade. (Isle of Bute, Scotland)
Sunlight bathes the 160-foot-tall Old Man of Storr. In the notch between the cliff face and the Old Man and stands a hiker. (Isle of Skye, Scotland)


Want to see more? Here are the favorites from our first year in Scotland:


 http://www.coloringwithoutborders.com/2014/07/favorite-photos-of-places-we-visited.html


Favorite photos of places we visited our first year




 http://www.coloringwithoutborders.com/2014/06/favorite-family-photos-of-our-first.html

Favorite family photos of our first year in Scotland




 http://www.coloringwithoutborders.com/2014/06/nearly-favorite-family-photos-of-our.html

(Nearly) favorite family photos of our first year in Scotland





Tuesday, March 11, 2014

Busy weekend in York

We traveled to York this past weekend. If you're touring England, it's truly an outstanding city to visit.

Founded in 71 AD as the Roman military fort of Eboracum, the city was successively ruled by the Angles (calling the city Eoforwic); then Vikings from Denmark for two centuries (who called the city Jorvik); then the Normans (i.e., William the Conqueror); and finally assimilation into England as York. During medieval times the city rose to great prominence, including as the base for the House of York to battle the House of Lancaster in the War of the Roses. Following centuries of gentle decline, York rose in the late nineteenth century as a center of confectioners e.g., the creators of Kit Kat and the railway industry. Nowadays, York is a major center of tourism in northern England.

A carving outside the York Minster.
Given its varied history, York provides visitors a wealth of different attractions. We saw a bunch of them.

While traveling is a major source of material for this blog, it also slows down my production of posts. Sorry 'bout that. Traveling takes time. So I gather a whole bunch of things about which I'd like to write, but then have less time to write about them. A double-edged sword.

We left Glasgow on Thursday morning, drove about four hours, and got to York around midday. We departed on Sunday morning, stopping at two ruined abbeys north of York, before returning to Glasgow on Sunday evening. Here's a taste of our long weekend:

The sloping buildings on the "Shambles" in downtown York.
York Minster.
An interactive display at York's Chocolate Story.
Only a little bit remains of St. Mary's Abbey.
Stopping for a snack outside the Yorkshire Museum.
An 8th century Viking helmet.
A display about the Roman town of Eboracum.
A steam engine in the massive National Railway Museum.
Tracing the ruins of Fountains Abbey, a UNESCO World Heritage site.
A recreated Victorian street in the York Castle Museum.
Jackson exploring the ruins of Rievaulx Abbey.