Showing posts with label Clava Cairns. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Clava Cairns. Show all posts

Friday, February 5, 2016

(Nearly) favorite family photos of our second year in Scotland

Choosing just a few from thousands and thousands of photos is a blessing and a curse. So many memories to reexamine; too many to share them all.

From more than 20,000 photos during our second year — the capacity of digital cameras and memory cards are a blessing and curse, too — I compiled a few hundred favorites, and then trimmed and shaved and pared to a few dozen. Some good ones simply didn't make the cut.

Of course, this was not a fast selection process for me. You might be thinking I did pretty well, narrowing down the photos from the previous year by early February. And that would be good, if only these photos were from 2015. Actually, they're from June 2014 to June 2015, our second (non-calendar) year in Scotland. Yep, it actually took me seven months to get around to these.

Anyone wanna lay odds on how long it takes me to compile our third year photos?

Hiking on the Trotternish Peninsula on the Isle of Skye
Hiking is one of our favorite activities, though it's more challenging when encumbered by a toddler. Here, Kate and Jackson enjoy the view on the Trotternish Peninsula on the Isle of Skye.
On the beach in St. Andrews, Scotland
On the beach in St. Andrews, during one of five trips we made to the fantastic city during our first two years in Scotland.
Face painting
It's an alligator, but Jack decided it was a dinosaur. Because toddler.
Narrow lanes of Anafiotike in Athens, Greece
Kate and Jackson exploring the narrow lanes of Anafiotika, at the base of the Acropolis in Athens, Greece.
As you might expect, Kate and Jackson get the bulk of my attention when I'm behind the lens. Actually, only if they're agreeable, or if I catch them unawares.

Kate and Jackson skiing
While visiting Kate's family in Colorado, Jackson got his very first chance to ski.
Resting in Kilmartin Glen
Taking a breather while exploring the prehistoric sites in Kilmartin Glen, Scotland.
At the Edinburgh Zoo
We watched some monkeys groom each other at Edinburgh Zoo . . .
Mock bug-eating at the zoo
. . . so Jackson had to groom and eat the bugs in Kate's hair.
Baking cookies
Baking cookies on Valentine's Day. Could I have made this more like a Betty Crocker advertisement?
Mattie at Jedburgh Abbey
Few dogs in the world were more loved than Mattie; I still feel her loss keenly. Click on this link to see her adventures in Scotland.
Mattie was a full-fledged member of our family. Jeez, do we miss her.

Other family members get roped in to my photography, too. In our second year, we had visits in Scotland from my parents, as well as one of Kate's sisters and her family. We also spent three weeks back in the States, which has been our only trip home during our first three years abroad.

I'll even throw in a couple of photos with me in them since, as Kate reminds me, I'm part of the family and should make an occasional appearance in our pictures.

Cup and ring marks on a stone at Clava Cairns
My sister-in-law, Rachel, helps draw your attention to this cup and ring marked prehistoric stone at Clava Cairns in Scotland.
Oh!
"Oh!" says my niece, Rosalie.
Hiking atop the Quairaing on the Isle of Skye
Enjoying the view atop the Quiraing on the Isle of Skye.
Nana at home in the States
My mom, whom Jackson calls "Nana," at home in North Carolina. Looking pretty good for an old broad who'll turn 70 this month.
Jack in a hat
Jack in a hat, after watching a performance of The Cat in the Hat at the Edinburgh Fringe Festival.
Sledding in Colorado
If only she had seen this sign, perhaps my niece, Macie, might've fared better.
Off to the races
A race back to the car in freezing temperatures.
I'm also beginning to take a few photos of strangers and passersby, though since I have no journalistic reason it feels a bit intrusive, particularly if I publish them online. But, hey, if they're performing in public, they're fair game.

Wearing a kilt in Glasgow
Some Americans seem to think Scots walk around in kilts all the time. Nope. Make no mistake, if someone walks around in a kilt it's a performance of some kind, even if just for attention.
Performance art in Dryburgh Abbey, Scotland
One of several dozen white-robed performance artists strode mysteriously around Dryburgh Abbey in the Scottish Borders.
Horse crash at the Blair Castle International Horse Trials
This harrowing horse crash resulted in a broken leg for the rider. Check out the full sequence of the horse crash, which took place over six seconds.
Horse jumping at the Blair Castle International Horse Trials
A more scenic view of horse jumping at the Blair Castle International Horse Trials, with Blair Castle as the backdrop.
Military band at the Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo
A military band performing at the Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo.
Bagpiper at the Three Sisters in Glencoe, Scotland
A busking highlands bagpiper at the Three Sisters in Glencoe, Scotland.
Enough about all these random people. Let's finish off this collection of almost favorite family photos with pictures of, well, actual family.

Posing in front of the Acropolis in Athens, Greece
Posing in front of the Acropolis in Athens.
Chocolate tasting at Skelligs Chocolate on the Kerry Peninsula, Ireland
It was a big hit to stop for a chocolate tasting at Skelligs Chocolate on the far western tip of Ireland. We bought a ton of this excellent chocolate.
A snack at Krispy Kreme
A North Carolina delicacy.
Lunch break in the fields above Helensburgh, Scotland
After visiting Charles Rennie Mackintosh's famed Hill House we took a hike in the hills above Helensburgh, Scotland. Here, a pause for lunch.
Kate and Jackson on a boat
On a boat from Iona to the Treshnish Isles to see puffins.
Jackson posing within the Kenmare Stone Circle in Ireland
Sometimes, even Kate takes pictures. Jackson reclined in the Kenmare Stone Circle in Ireland.
Hiking through The Whangie in Kilpatrick, Scotland
Hiking through The Whangie in Kilpatrick, Scotland.



Want to see more? Here are the favorites from our first year in Scotland:


 http://www.coloringwithoutborders.com/2014/07/favorite-photos-of-places-we-visited.html


Favorite photos of places we visited our first year




 http://www.coloringwithoutborders.com/2014/07/nearly-favorite-photos-of-places-we.html

(Nearly) favorite photos of places we visited our first year




 http://www.coloringwithoutborders.com/2014/06/favorite-family-photos-of-our-first.html

Favorite family photos of our first year in Scotland




 http://www.coloringwithoutborders.com/2014/06/nearly-favorite-family-photos-of-our.html

(Nearly) favorite family photos of our first year in Scotland




Friday, January 17, 2014

Clava Cairns

What were they thinking?

Why expend so much effort on a carefully crafted pile of stones? And why erect circles of monoliths around those cairns?

At first glance, it looks like a pile of rubble. Nicely stacked rocks, to be sure, but nonetheless just a mound of stone.

The northern cairn.
Paying a bit more attention, the kerb stones around the base of the cairn indicate an enormous physical effort went into building the cairns. The even larger monoliths encircling the cairn were carefully placed and erected -- so heavy, and so expertly erected, that they have stood upright for thousands of years. This is not the work of a lone man, or a family, or a small team. Constructing these cairns required large numbers of people working over a lengthy period of time.

While some other cairns in the British Isles have standing stones incorporated into their structures, the Clava Cairns each have rings of standing stones marking a perimeter. We don't know why.
Move to the southwestern side, however, and things get really interesting. It's not just a mound of rocks. It's hollow. And it has a narrow passage leading to the inner chamber. Moreover, the mound is shorter on the southwestern side and substantially taller on the northeastern side. Huh?

A narrow passage leads into the cairn.
Kate is taller than the southwestern side. And she ain't tall.
Note that the kerb stones lead down the passage and line the interior of the cairn, as well.
Jackson makes himself as tall as possible.
The interior chamber is circular. The stones are stacked the highest at the back wall (i.e., the northeastern wall), and the floor accentuates this height by slightly sloping downward toward it. When it was first constructed the cairn had a domed ceiling with overlapping stones (somewhat like shingles) and a capstone, though obviously those stones were long ago plundered for use in other construction. Likewise, the entrance passage originally had a low ceiling, necessitating entry by crawling.

In contrast with the entrance at the southwestern end, the back of the cairn is much taller than Kate.
These stacked stones may not look artfully constructed, but keep in mind they were placed well enough to stay in place for several millennia.
An artist's rendering of a cross-section of the cairn with its dome intact.
The three Clava Cairns were built in the Bronze Age, around 4,000 years ago. The northern and southern cairns are "passage cairns," allowing access into the interior. The middle cairn is a ring cairn, with no passage into the hollow middle. Why are there three cairns? (There might have been five, but evidence is scant.) Why is the middle one different? Is there a symbolic meaning? Some other reason? We don't know.

A few of the stones on the cairns have what are called "cup and ring marks" on them. Were these stones meaningful? Merely decorative? Do they indicate a proto-writing? Since some of the stones in the cairns appear to have been taken from earlier structures (homes?), it is possible the cup and ring stones were merely incidentally added to the cairns and have no significance. Again, we don't know.

The cup and ring marks on a stone at Clava Cairns. (Photo courtesy of Wikipedia.)
Although the passage of time, combined with plundering and unskilled excavation, have made modern scholars uncertain, it seems the cairns were used to bury only a few people, and perhaps no more than one each. Were these tribal chieftans? Spiritual leaders?

What I find particularly fascinating, however, is the passage cairns were so carefully constructed yet put into use only for a short period of time. The passage is precisely placed to capture the setting sun on the winter solstice, at which point the sunlight would stream into the covered cairn and shine on the quartz on the back wall. From the perspective of the northern cairn, the sun set directly over the highest point of the southern cairn. Furthermore, recent scholarly analysis has shown that the stones have a gradation of color and texture used in groupings throughout the cairns. A great deal of thought, time, and manpower went into constructing the cairns. Yet the openings were very soon filled in with rubble and no further indication of these features was apparent. Why go to so much trouble?

On the winter solstice, the sun sets over the cairn visible in the distance through the passage.
The Clava Cairns are a quick 10-15 minute drive east of Inverness, just beyond the famed Culloden battlefield. Similar cairns dot the countryside all around Inverness and the Moray Firth. Because these cairns are the best preserved, the other cairns are all deemed to be "Clava-type" cairns.

We had the cairns largely to ourselves. Only a couple of other visitors trickled in. The best way to see a prehistoric site is in solitude, or at least as near solitude as possible. You need stillness; quiet; the blowing of the wind. {Ed.'s note: Having a toddler along can somewhat negate the solitude, but it's a lot better to have your own toddler wandering around than some other toddler messing up the mood.}

Tracing the perimeter of the monoliths around the middle cairn.
Apparently performing his own primitive ritual. In the 1870s, the owners of the land erroneously thought the cairns were druid temples, so they planted a ring of trees to circle the site.
The circles of monoliths are of varying heights and widths. Other than with the northern cairn -- where the monoliths are much taller in front of the (short) southwestern entrance, and much shorter behind the (tall) northeastern back end -- there doesn't seem to be a particular rhyme or reason for the varying shapes and sizes. That's a contrast with a site like Stonehenge, which has standing stones of distinct and regular sizes. Undoubtedly, the harsher climate around the Clava Cairns has eroded many of the stones, but even accounting for natural forces the monoliths are quite varied. Were the builders simply uninterested in making the stones more uniform? Was there a plan or a rationale? Did a different group erect the circles around the cairns?

Fat monoliths contrasted . . .
. . . with skinny monolith.
The middle cairn is a "ring cairn," with no entrance. It's much lower than the northern and southern cairns, and never had a roof. Where the northern and southern cairns are lowest at the southwest and highest at the northeast, this middle ring of stones is highest at the southwest and lowest at the northeast. Although it's called a "cairn," it may have been instead a place for a pyre for ceremonies accompanying burials in the northern and southern cairns. Unlike the two accompanying cairns, this ring of stones was not carefully placed and balanced but rather was merely a pile of rocks held within the inner and outer kerbs. After the hollow interior was no longer being used (either as a cairn or pyre), it was filled with rubble.

The middle cairn. (Photo courtesy of the Historic Scotland visitor's guide.)
No careful craftsmanship for this ring of rocks.
The ring is quite wide. Kate is standing on the northeast side, at its lowest height.
This ring cairn has a feature not found among any of the other cairns in the area. For some unknown purpose, several low banks of rubble radiate out from the ring toward some of the standing stones. Were these decorative? Did they have a symbolic meaning?

The paths of rubble are now mostly covered by grass.
About 1,000 years after the cairns were built, another group of people interred a few of their own dead into the structures (~1,000 B.C.). Not much is known about these people, either, since virtually no remains can be found. This later group also built a small kerb cairn on the site. Unlike the other cairns on the site, the kerb cairn is primitive and demonstrates no building acumen. Did they possess the skill to build a cairn like their forebears, but chose not to? Or did they lose the ability -- either the knowledge or the collective will -- to make better cairns?

Jackson peers into the cairn.
At one point, the cairn probably had a bulging mound above it, but now only a small depression remains.
The southern cairn is another passage cairn. It is almost identical to its counterpart northern cairn. As with the northern cairn, the southern cairn's passage aligns with the winter solstice's setting sun. The view from the passage of the northern cairn would have the sun setting directly over the highest point of the southern cairn.

The southern cairn.
I'm a big fan of prehistoric sites. I love the mystery of the techniques and motivations that created them. The stark, dramatic stones appeal to me aesthetically.

Besides the Clava Cairns, we've so far had the opportunity to visit prehistoric monuments at Machrie Moor, Avebury, and Stonehenge; I'll detail the latter two in future posts. I'm eager to see sites such as Skara Brae in the Orkneys and the Callanish Stones on the Isle of Lewis in the Outer Hebrides. This summer should be busy . . . .